Scott Hess Photography

A Line in the Sand - Defending SF/Bay for the USA - the coastal batteries.

San Francisco has always been prized for it's magnificent bay and surrounding, supporting lands.  Even before the gold, the trend was obvious: San Francisco would be a a major connecter for the emerging United States with the Pacific World beyond.

Fort Point, above, was built on the most narrow point of the Golden Gate. The Spanish first fortified the site in 1794 with 13 cannon housed in an adobe structure. When California became the 31st state in 1850, the U.S. Army and Navy officials recommended a series of fortifications with the primary being Fort Point, an architectural masterwork built between 1853 and 1861. By the end of the Civil War it was apparent that the new rifled cannons could penetrate brick fortifications with ease, effectively making the fort a large, vulnurable target.

In this photo, taken on the morning of 8-19-11, the Russian tall ship Pallada unexpectedly (by me) sailed through the Gate past Fort Point on a goodwill mission. It seemed surreal somehow.

The connective links created with the great maritime routes of the Pacific held great promise but also opened the harbor to great risk from enemy attack. The young nation took serious, periodic steps to harden it's Bay Area defences with a series of gun emplacements and minefields.

Battery Crosby is located on the serpentine cliffs overlooking the Golden Gate from the north shore. It was built in 1900 to protect underwater mine fields and housed two 6" guns with a range of eight miles. The battery was officially closed in 1943 when it was considered obsolete.

The potential enemies at various times have been Spain, England (yes England!), the Confederacy, Japan, and Russia. The peak threats came with World War 2 and the Japanese battleships, subs, and aircraftcarriers; and the Cold War with nuclear weapons, aircraft and missiles. Megawars like WW1 and WW2 seem almost outdated now, but our recent past has seen otherwise.  Until World War 2 the big guns marked the spot where we drew a line in the sand and took our stand as U.S citizens on the edge of the Pacific Rim. I feel my own identity entangled in this fact, and am drawn into contemplation of our political faultlines. Even the great continental plates hidden underneath create dynamic tension as they grind away at each other with periodic spasms.

The author at Battery Yates, Fort Baker, Marin Headlands.  Battery Yates was constructed in 1903 and armed with six M1902 3 inch rifles mounted on M1902 pedastal mounts. As is the case with most of the coastal batteries, it occupies a highly strategic and aesthetically exciting location.

 

 

Cultural Alchemy in the Mission

 

Temples of Transformation. Arriba Juntos (Upward Together). 1850 Mission Street. Their mission is to meet the basic service needs of the Latino immigrants moving into the Mission District.  click photo to enlarge.

When President Obama pivoted from the destruction of Osama bin Laden to his El Paso speech on immigration reform, my attention was shifting to the Mission. The Mission churns with a multitude of cultures from Mexico and Central and South America as well as African and Asian countries. The neighborhood is laced with groups and organizations that help empower the new arrivals and those struggling with poverty and lack of education. Scores of gifted artists pour their passionate hearts into community art that speaks directly to the street and the aspirations of the people.

The project of transformation, integration and empowerment is fueled by the creative imagination of Mission artists, activists and service workers.  

"500 Years of Resistance" I. Mata  1993 - 24th and Florida - San Francisco  click image to enlarge.

Epic struggles of war, displacement, conquest, and periodic triumph are remembered and celebrated by intense and dedicated artists- working at street level.

Balmy Alley, off 24th Street is a vibrant street gallery that lives and breaths with the community. Artists of all ages and several nationalities have collaborated over the last 40+ years to energize this place with their dreams taking shape.

This strong, dazzling Phoenix appeared this spring at Florida at 24th St on "the crappiest building in the Mission" according to neighborhood folks. The building is home to weekly AA meetings and the symbolism of periodic rebirth is a powerful reminder of our inner strength.    click image to enlarge.

The Women's Building- 3543 18th St. San Francisco. A masterpiece of collaborative art weaving the images of incarnate heroines with goddesses and powerful celestial beings. The building is home to a multitude of groups dedicated to supporting women and the family. click image to enlarge.

For more information on the murals of the Mission go to Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center.

Lady Gaga's Big Day (Today)

24th and Harrison - the Mission -SF

Lady Gaga made a sudden appearance all over the city last week- letting us know about her new box set being released today. She is a part of the energy of the street and she wants to electrify us all.

The Fort Scott Batteries and Osama Bin Laden

All the talk about Osama Bin Laden's dramatic demise has me thinking about "national defense". Coincidentally I approach Battery Boutelle, one of the Fort Scott large gun emplacements constructed to defend the Golden Gate and now provide a starkly beautiful architecture for hikers, bikers, painters and open space appreciators.

Here's what the National Park Service says about Battery Boutelle,

"This Endicott-era battery was completed and armed in 1900 with three 5-inch rapid fire guns mounted on balanced pillar mounts, which were designed to defend against mine sweepers and fast torpedo boats. These guns had a range of seven miles and could be fired at the rate of up to thirty rounds per minute. Like most light artillery, these guns were loaded with ammunition cases similar to the cartridges used in infantry rifles. The weight of one cartridge was nearly sixty pounds.

This battery remained functional until 1917 when the three guns were dismounted for service as field artillery during World War I.  The whole Presidio as well as the Marin Headlands on the far side of the Golden Gate is filled with hard defensive structures that served "us" in various political/technological eras. The times and mega-ideas shift and morph across new lands with new means. Check out this map of the Presidio batteries of various types distributed on the San Francisco side of the Gate.

In the view above one see's gun emplacements at the bottom nestled in the cyprus trees.

The lines of politico-techno battle have shifted away from this naturally awesome place to new locations via ever changing means. I'm happy for this moment with the abstract beauty of light, space, curved walls, and ocean vistas.

Overview of Battery Boutelle and the Golden Gate - with grass roots art.

The essential beauty of light where it meets it's diffusers, reflectors and containers.

For more photos of this dramatic location see my Presidio set on Flickr.

Release Ai Weiwei! Alarm at the Chinese Consulate.

"1001 Chairs for Weiwei" - demonstration at the Chinese Consulate 4-17-11

The brilliant Chinese avant garde artist Ai Weiwei crashed into my consciousness this past week.  First I encountered his sublime piece, "Western Screetch Owl Habitats" installed in a giant cyprus tree in the Presidio Habitats show (see previous post) and now I receive an email from Haines Gallery with the all caps title RELEASE AI WEIWEI, inviting me to a demonstration on Sunday 4-17 at the Chinese Consulate on Languna Street.

Time Magazine article 4-25-11

Ai Weiwei is China's hottest modern artist, with a current exhibition of 100 million porcelain sunflower seeds at London's Tate Modern Museum. His collection of bronze animal heads- replicas of those looted from Beijing's Summer Palace by French and British troops in 1860 is ready to go on display in New York City's Central Park next month.  He does architecture, sculpture, film, and "truth investigations" that challenge government sanctioned "Reality". To dig into Ai's wide ranging work is to encounter an awe inspiring spirit and intelligence that electrifies, activates and encourages. Ai is at the top of his/the game of artistic creativity, fame and fortune. He continues to lay it all on the line to warn of the totalitarian darkside as his Mother Culture rushes headlong into the spell of hyper materialism.   

Ai, who has been relentlessly active on Twitter (78,000 followers) is now silent, held by the Chinese Government in a place unknown. They claim he has committed "economic crimes", ie some type of tax infraction. Human rights activists are very concerned as Weiwei's disappearance is only the latest in an increasing crackdown on dissent as China prepares for a transition in leadership next year. 

 Empty Chairs for Weiwei at the Chinese Consulate.  
 
I arrive at the Consulate at 1 PM sharp. In a few minutes people begin to congregate with their portable chairs in hand.  The idea is "to reenact Ai Weiwei's project Fairytale: 1001 Qing Dynasty Wooden Chairs - an installation comprised of 1001 late Ming and Qing Dynasty wooden chairs at Documenta 12 in 2007 in Kassel, Germany - in front of Chinese embassies and consulates around the world.". The presence of the people at this place with an open message is what is important.

One Chinese reporter, Thomas Wu of The Epoch Times, conducted thoughtful interviews with several participants, including organizer Cheryl Haines. Haines told Wu she "adored" Weiwei and cried all day when she heard of his detention. 

Cheryl Haines of San Francisco's Haines Gallery at the Chinese Consulate. Her gallery is one of two US reps for Ai's work. She sounded the local alarm that gathered those in solidarity with the Weiwei.

Thomas Wu of TheEpochTimes.com interviews participants- mostly artists and a few activists such as  Fang Zheng whose legs were crushed by Chinese army's tanks at Tiananmen Square.

Fang Zheng, Tiananmen Square activist.  

In a recent TED talk, Weiwei said that ignoring China's human rights violations and heavy handed totalitarian control was not a healthy situation - for anyone involved. While recovering from a police beating and cranial surgery in 2009, Ai said "Everybody has worries, but being scared will not help the situation. More people need to speak out and participate".

April 25th Time Magazine article-"The Activist-Artist of China"

More photos from the demonstration at the Chinese Consulate.

 

Presidio Habitats- The Wild City Speaks to the World

"Western Screech Owl Habitats"- installed as a series of elegant porcelain "nests" by renowned Chinese avant-garde artist Ai Weiwei. The piece is a ritual request for the ten-years-gone Western Screech Owl to return to the Presidio. The connections between California and China resonate and weave themselves into the presence. The highly successful, outspoken, and socially provocative Ai Weiwei is now imprisoned by the Chinese government for highly suspicious reasons.

I have come to an interesting and compelling relationship with "Presidio Habitats", the current, environmental, site specific art exhibition in the northwest Presidio highlands. Every time I come here and concentrate on one or more of the installations I have a synchronistic, mind altering experience. Since this exhibit seems to be striking deep chords, my response here will likely extend over more than one day.

 
 

Yesterday, in a giant cypress tree near Fort Scott, I discovered the work "Western Screech Owl Habitatsl" by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei. Just now I receive an email from San Francisco's Haines Gallery with the title (all in caps) "RELEASE WEIWEI!!" calling for a demonstration at the Chinese Consulate, 1450 Laguna Street this Sunday, 4-17, at 1:00 PM. As I dig down into Weiwei's story I am touched, impressed and activated. Weiwei is now being held in prison by the Chinese government for his bold outspoken acts challenging the Chinese culture to break out of it's materialistic-authoritarian dream of the past thirty years. He is a sublime conceptual, sculptural and architectural artist as well as a social activist and digital provocateur.  This is an unfolding story that carries deep and serious meaning for all the countries and citizens of our interconnected world. Learn more.

 

For more on the demonstation of solidarity with Ai Weiwei this Sunday, 4-17-11, 1 PM at the Chinese Consulate go to the Haines Gallery Facebook page.  It will be fascinating to see how our local Asian community reacts to this situation/event, including Mayor Ed Lee and the Chinese Chamber of Commerce.

Solar, Wind and Nuclear Symbolism in Pacific Heights

 

This is the residence of the Japanese Consul General,  2700 Vallejo Street in Pacific Heights. The whole scene is embedded with amazing symbolism - ie. the SOLAR flag animated by a lively WIND - flying at half mast because of the earthquake/NUCLEAR disaster - with the solar panel installer's van out front ( http://www.ca-green.com/ ). Yes, those panels are going up in the Consul General's roof! Apparently the job had been planned for several months.

 

For an important debate between George Monbiot and Helen Caldicott on the future of nuclear power, held this morning on Democracy Now go here. The debate will certainly evolve as we learn more. Many thanks to my son Evan for spotting this symbolic convergence as we were driving over the hills on our way from the bayside Wave Organ to Japantown on 3-28-11. 

Lobos Creek Channels the Spring Rains

Lobos Creek as it makes its way by the Seacliff neighborhood, west of Lincoln Boulevard.

Lobos Creek is now channeling alot of water from our ongoing series of spring rains and it is a perfect time to tune in.  This prolific stream flows from Mountain Lake in Presidio Heights to Baker Beach at the Golden Gate.  Since the late 1800s it has been the main source of potable water for the Presidio, over one million gallons/day. I feel wet, green and vibrant down here in the creek bed with the waters of life.

Mountain Lake at the top of the Presidio- the headwaters of Lobos Creek.  This is where Juan Batista de Anza and his scouting party camped to stake out the Presidio in 1776.  In the fall, as seen above, when all surroundings are hot and dry, this is a place of refuge and refreshment.

Lobos Creek served the growing City of San Francisco well beyond the boundries of the Presidio.I recently saw a photo taken in the 1860s that shows a redwood flume running around the bayside cliffs of Black Point (now Fort Mason).  This wooden aqueduct brought water to the base of Russian Hill where it was pumped up to the new residences above via a private water company. The was no municipal water works for San Francisco until the mid 1930s. 

Lobos Creek enters the sea at Baker Beach/Seacliff and the outer Golden Gate. There is a water treatment plant just a few hundred yards upstream that serves the Presidio and it diverts over half of the creek's water for human use. The sense of history, strategic importance, and the natural splendor of the converging elements make this place powerful and magnetic.

Love to Japan

A fisherman on Baker Beach calls back to his family in Japan for the latest news regarding the crisis after the March 11 earthquake/tsunami/meltdowns.

A businessman in San Francisco's Japantown Center absorbs the images of chaos and grief as Fukushima nuclear plants continue to burn and snow falls on the rubble in Sendai.

We've been thinking about the cataclysm and suffering in Japan ever since the massive earthquake of March 11.  The resultant tsunami and nuclear meltdowns show us once again how vulnurable and how interconnected we all are. Our awareness is heightened that Japan and San Francisco are both located on the volcanic Pacific rim and that we share a strange nuclear karma. The Dragon of Nuclear Power was first unleashed here in the Bay Area at Livermore Labs in the Berkeley Hills.

 

A couple move through Japantown plaza past the Peace Pagoda as spring rains descend. The pagoda was dedicated "to the people of San Francisco from the people of Japan" in 1968 when the center opened.  Click images to enlarge.

Japanese Cultural and Community Center- 1840 Sutter Street, San Francisco.  Banner reads "There is Something You Can Do. Support the Northern Japan Earthquake Relief Fund.   www.jcccnc.org  415-567-5505

 

This stupa, located on the roof of the Buddhist Church of San Francisco, contains holy relics of the Buddha donated by the King of Siam in 1935.   The church was founded here on 1881 Pine Street in 1898 by two priests from Kyoto.

The current crisis is highlighting the amazing courage, strength, resilience, and collective intelligence of the Japanese people. May love and blessings descend on them to heal the pain and give new life.

The Olmec in San Francisco

I enter the Olmec show at the de Young Museum with great anticipation. ("Olmec- Colossal Masterworks of Ancient Mexico: Feb 19- May 8, 2011)  The Olmec were the Mother Culture of all succeeding cultures in Mesoamerica. They arose in the riverine lowlands along the Gulf of Mexico in the the present day states of Veracruz and Tabasco around 1400 BC.  Like all emerging "civilizations" east and west, they organized themselves around the cultivation of grains and their compiimentary crops. They developed specialized social classes, early forms of writing, and monumental art.  There are many more questions than answers about the Olmec culture at this time.

Colossal Head 5 from San Lorenzo. Carved from a giant Basalt boulder. 1200-800 BC Discovered in 1946. Click on photos to enlarge.

When I confront the first large stone sculptures the first thing that I feel/think is "Africa".   These awesome pieces just look African- in both in their features and their styling. However, this "African influence" idea is not the view of the current scholarly consensus. Although the web teems with independent researchers who claim direct African influence on the Olmec culture, there is little direct, conclusive evidence for that at this time. Apparently, material for DNA testing is scant.

 

Monument 8 (Twin II)  1200-900 BC  from Loma del Zapote-El Azuzul-  Represents a young Olmec ruler paying homage to a feline-jaguar diety.  Does this not look Egyptian?

Corresponding in time with the Golden Age of Greece and the Zhou Dynasty of China, Olmec architects and artists produced the earliest monumental stone structures and sculptures in North America, including enormous portrait heads of their rulers weighing up to 24 tons.

Monument Q (Colossal Head) from Tres Zapotes- carved from distinctive porphyritic basalt (volcanic) and weighing over 8 tons.

Figure Wearing Incised Loincloth  Mexico, Puebla,  900-400 BC. Greenstone.  On either side of the skirt are paired signs that suggest a cosmic diagram with the figure himself as the central axis or "world tree'.  Olmec artists were unsurpassed in their ability to work this hard stone with elementary tools of chert, water, and sand.

Click on photos to enlarge

 One of the most striking pieces for me was a carved relief, about three feet high that looked so natural and so graceful.  I would love to know more about it, and I'm sure I'll be returning to the de Young for another encounter and hopefully some helpful lectures.

Olmec, Colossal Masterworks of Ancient Mexico is curated by Kathleen Berrin, curator in charge of Africa, Oceana and the Americas at the Fine Arts Musuems of San Francisco and Virginia M. Fields, senior curator of art of the Ancient Americas at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.